The marine protected area in front of Watamu beach: lagoon, coral reef and sandbanks that appear and disappear with the tide.
The Watamu Marine National Park & Reserve is managed by the Kenya Wildlife Service and is one of the oldest marine protected areas in East Africa. It takes in the bay in front of Watamu, the outer reef and the belt of reserve that runs down to the mouth of Mida Creek.
I know this stretch of sea and I pick the spots according to the tide and the conditions on the day: the lagoon inside the reef, the coral formations, the shallows that surface for a few hours. It is not a fixed route, and that is why the departure time changes every day.
Nature and culture
Inside the reef the water is shallow and full of life: parrotfish, butterflyfish, surgeonfish, moray eels, sea urchins and starfish. Green and hawksbill turtles are present in the waters of the reserve and have been followed for years by conservation groups based in Watamu. No encounter is guaranteed: the animals move freely.
Watamu lives off the sea on land as well. The fishermen go out in outrigger boats, dhows cross the bay, and the village has lived alongside the protected area since it was established. Going out with local crews is the most direct way for a visit to leave something here.
When to come
Underwater visibility is generally better in the drier months, roughly October to March, when the sea is calmer. Between June and August the south-east monsoon brings wind and swell: the water can be rougher and cloudier.
Getting there
We set off from the beach or from a jetty in Watamu: from most places in the bay that is a few minutes away. Boarding often happens straight off the shore, with your feet in the water.
From Malindi it is a short drive on tarmac; Malindi airport is the arrival point for anyone flying in from Nairobi.
Travel times
The times below are indicative: they change with the entry gate, road surface, traffic and season.
From
Indicative hours
Note
Watamu
0.25–0.5
Indicative time: it depends on where you are staying in the bay and on the boarding point.
Malindi
0.5–0.75
Indicative time on tarmac, variable with traffic.
Nairobi
1.5 by air + 0.75 by road
Indicative time: flight to Malindi and transfer on to Watamu. Schedules, connections and waiting times change and need confirming.
Images
On video
A snorkeller in the turquoise water above the reef, with others further out.0:16